Culinary virtuoso solo criticism
Appetizer appetizer under
History of the guide and the principles of the rating
Compared with other culinary guides incumbents restaurant directory «Lebey» pretty young and the more surprising fact that this publication has a very great weight among his own kind. And most of the credit for this belongs to just one person - the creator of the guide, a restaurant critic Claude Lebeyu. We can say that directory - this critical culinary virtuoso solo part in the performance of a talented professional. The history of its existence has a little more than 26 years, but during this short period he became a leading textbook on pilgrimage places for gourmet cooking from around the world ... but only within one particular area. The fact that Claude Lebey specializes exclusively in Parisian establishments, making an exception only for the suburbs of the capital.
Appropriately and directories under his own name, he releases two: Le guide Lebey, assessing culinary institution neighborhoods of Paris and Le petit Lebey, surveillance considering Parisian bistros and cafes. The latter is the only publication of its kind, fully describing exceptionally cheap small places of the city, and this is very important because they set the tone of life, attract tourists in the first place, to create a unique look of Paris and its cozy welcoming atmosphere. The uniqueness of the directory is in the fact that it one separately evaluated the quality of bread and coffee establishments.
LebeySolo performance affects the whole character of the edition: it's mostly personal preference Mr. LeBeau, who personally selects places for inclusion in the rating guide. However, because it is not an amateur, but a real professional in his field, having, besides, a great experience in it, then the objectivity of his guest is not satisfactory. Conversely, ratings LeBeau enjoyed the confidence of gourmet and often perceived as a guide to action - visit any restaurant that has appreciated.
It should be noted that the master himself Lebey quite critically refers to the child and to themselves personally. He willingly gives interviews to various magazines and even virtual bloggers, not disdaining to tell them about their work. As acknowledged by the critic himself, he does it for tog to being branded a snob, too refined esthete in haute cuisine, far from ordinary people who love good and tasty meal at a reasonable price. That's why he took assess cheap and cozy cafes that, in his opinion, often undeservedly fall out of sight major gastronomic guides.
Sees its task Lebey mention in reference those institutions that make "culinary face" of Paris in the first place, that is where you can come easily, which immediately attracted the attention of tourists with its cozy or unusual appearance, which nicely happen constantly or occasionally . In short, these are the restaurants and cafes to incarnate the eternal spirit of Paris, which were praised by poets and writers, have found a second life in songs and paintings. They - as much a part of the city, as well as its attractions and architecture.
So you can safely say that, despite the leading "solo" website, this guide - a very valuable asset for those who are going to spend a few days walking around Paris for the first time, and for those whose gastronomic experience with restaurants of the French capital already large enough.
Form and content of the guide
Institutions falling within the scope of the review guide, structured by location in a particular area of Paris. Currently, there are about 400 types of bistros and cafes, and the list is updated each year with new names and extends, for example, in 2002, the guide contains a description only 308 schools, in 2010 there were already 360, in 2011 - 390.
Each article contains a description of the cafe, description shaped dishes and a mandatory review of the master LeBeau, who briefly and to the comments menu interiors and specific features of the institution. Individual assessment awarded mandatory attributes and the "face" of any Parisian bistro - pastries and coffee.
In the 2012 edition also provides an overview of each wine cards bistro conducted by experts in the field and Thierry Michel Bettane Desov that mark two or three names that definitely need to try this or that institution. Here are some tips for choosing the best option in the beverage quality-price ratio.
In addition, the directory specified and informative information: hours of operation, availability of parking, addresses and phone numbers of cafes, etc. Separately provides information about who is the owner of a cafe or bistro, and a list of administrative entities.
Reader to make it easier to choose or find a specific institution, the last pages of the guide is a complete list of names, broken down into groups by type of cuisine (restaurants luxury, classical, fusion, fashion, specialized institutions) that looks the best dish ( Paris best oysters, the best caviar or chocolate), work schedule (open before or after 23.00), on a price basis (average price is greater than or less than 30 euros).
Interestingly, the reference allocated a separate chapter describing the cafes and bistros Roissy-Charles de Gaulle and Orly airports.
Three pots, three cups and three bread crust - the perfect restaurant
Yet Lebey main intrigue "LeBeau" estimates constitute assigned here every cafe or bistro. Moreover, the compiler comes to the case with a subtle French humor: he does not take a banal, boring and well-worn star-point system, and introduces the principle of iconography, which makes directory distinct and unique look, but also makes valuations are very visible and bright. Pros kitchen facilities here are measured in the pans (the highest measure - three), the quality of the baked loaves range expressed in, but not kakih-nibud and real French baguettes (three - the best of the best pastries), and to evaluate well the taste of the coffee cups used (if could not resist, you will be able to drink three cups of here in one gulp, then this institution drink exactly the best).
For some time in the directory, there are new codes, which are designed in an accessible way to give more information about the restaurant guide readers: big or small this place, character kitchen, a terrace or outdoor playground, etc. All this is told with the review article, but the legend to talk about it much more concise, saving time. This particular edition was available in 2012, thanks to a new more user-friendly design pages.
But the most enviable mark on the pages of the guide is the main symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower. It marked the individual merits of those chefs who have achieved, according to Claude LeBeau, in his art incredible success. Several years in a row of three red towers were awarded masters of culinary affairs Ganer Pierre (Pierre Gagnaire) - restaurant "Pierre Gagnaire" - Alan Sanderans (Alain Senderence) - restaurant "Lucas Carton".
Each annual edition guide «Lebey» turns into a big banquet where awarded and handed awards to the best dishes of the year, following the publication of ratings. In general we can say that this action is more like a bright show, similar to inflame the passions cinematic "Oscar". Usually there is going to all the culinary elite, headed by editorial leadership guide "Lebey." In the winners and prize-winners can be seen most famous Parisian chefs and restaurateurs, as well as guests - many celebrities and stars of different scale. The winner is determined by a competent jury, which includes experts guide, restaurant critics and top chefs who did not participate in the competition, and take into account the wish reputable gourmet and, to some extent, public opinion (among visitors institutions nominees held online vote). Therefore in this case the voice of Claude LeBeau almost always behind the scenes and never decisive.
In March 2012, a premium of swans were awarded four dishes that meet various criteria, which included not only the taste and appearance of the, but also follow the fashion trends of the season, using only eco-friendly products, the price line (12 to 22 euros), etc. In general, the award is designed to show in panoramic Parisian gastronomy in four areas: a meat dish, a fish dish, a side dish and dessert. Medalists in these areas in 2012 were:
Meat dish - baked pie home of birds and goose liver with crispy salad and green asparagus, chef Arnaud Nikolai (price restaurant 12,00 €)
Fish dish - mackerel in ginger sauce, vinegar, oil, salt and citrus juice with long noodles and carrots, chef Thierry Mar (restaurant price 22,00 €) Garnish - Mashed ratte, chef Michel Roth
Dessert - Foaming white chocolate with crunchy caramel and dark chocolate sorbet, chef Kei Kobayashi
Interesting facts andIn 2012, the guide has undergone some changes in its appearance and content, which is associated with the change of leadership of the editorial office. However, no radical changes did not happen here, it can be carried out most of the amendments which were agreed with the mandatory directory creator Claude LeBeau. For example, was redesigned pages, which was involved in the work known designer and illustrator Helen Tran, which for several years has been successfully cooperating with a guide. In addition, plans have been added to each district of Paris to the reader to make it easier to find a particular institution, find the nearest subway station or location of the city's attractions.
Also in 2012, was released a special edition of Best of Lebey - paperback, called a real sensation for tourists. Indeed, in this handy little book contains little more than 70 addresses the best and the most important Parisian bistro, you can always take with you when going for a walk around town to know where you can eat for the benefit of the stomach and for the benefit of the purse. Here are registered all the same characteristics as a guide usual format: addresses, phone numbers, location, distance from the subway, a late breakfast or dinner, the description of atmosphere and uniqueness of the product, the size of the average check, etc. For the convenience of a pocket guide is also provided with the accompanying inscriptions in English (the international language), as well as street maps showing the main attractions that can make the journey with him through the streets of the French capital is not only interesting in gastronomic terms.
In addition to the paper version is available to readers and the electronic version of the beloved guide - online www.lebey.com You can not only get acquainted with more than 1,000 descriptions of cafes and restaurants, but also read reviews and leave your visitors, and book a table in a pleasing bistro directly from the site.
Since 2010 Guide Lebey available and as a smartphone application - Smartphone Lebey, which is also very convenient for tourists and visitors alike.
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Autor: zemmDate: 19-02-2014, 19:59Views: 6822Comments: - 0
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